16 5 / 2013
How a Dress Shirt Should Fit
As the summer approaches, you will find yourself taking off that blazer or suit jacket and revealing your dress shirt. With that in mind it is imperative that dress shirt fits well. A dress shirt is not a regular shirt there are a lot of details to get right, from the collar to the cut of the torso. However, this task is not being rocket science because there are just 6 aspects of a dress shirt that determine whether or not it fits well.
Shoulder: The seam of the shoulder should meet at the corner of your shoulder bone.
Collar: You should know your measurements, especially neck size and arm length. A good way to tell if the collar fits well is that you should be able to comfortably fit one finger between the collar and your neck. If you can fit two fingers, the collar is too big.
Armholes: Should be high enough without causing restricted motion. Therefore if you are unable to tie your neck tie when your shirt is button the armholes are too tight.
Sleeve: Your sleeve should not be too tight or too baggy, it should allow natural motion. The same rules apply to armholes. The length should end where your palm meets your wrist, about a 1/2 inch past your wrist bone.
Torso: No matter what your shape, buy a shirt that closely fits your torso. Billowy folds only make you look bigger. 
Here are two examples of how a dress shirt should fit.
My best advice is to purchase slim fit dress shirts rather than a classic fit. I have found some great affordable options at JCP and H&M. However, if you have a dispensable budget you can never go wrong with a custom dress shirt.
14 5 / 2013
Today I wore a charcoal grey chalk stripe suit. This was on the clearance rack at JCPenney for $68 so this purchase was inevitable. This look was inspired by my one of my favorite movies, “Harlem Nights”. I found the suspenders, vintage Christian Dior tie, and tie clip from a local thrift store prior to purchasing this suit. I feel that those items really helped complete the outfit, especially the suspenders. I would not suggest one to wear a suit like this to an interview because it might be a little too ballsy. However once you get the job sporting a suit like this is a great way of expressing your personality without having to say much.
12 5 / 2013
Southern gentleman attire. Of course I would prefer a more tailored fit but I still appreciate this look.
12 5 / 2013
I am not a fan of trends but these camo double monks from SuitSupply are amazing. Truly a statement piece for the summer.
12 5 / 2013
Just incase you ever wondered why a quality pair of dress shoes are so expensive…
10 5 / 2013
Today I decided to go with a very business casual look. I went with a blazer and denim combination, which is an ensemble that I have featured several times on this blog. The interesting fact about this blazer is that not only it is Hardy Amies, but I actually put on those elbow pads myself. I also think the suede wingtips complemented the tie perfectly. I think the fact that you can still get some wears out of your favorite fall and winter blazers, is one of the great things about the spring season.
09 5 / 2013
I am sure everyone knows by now that I am a fan of a 3-piece suit. But most importantly I love the versatility of a good waistcoat. Therefore, today I decided to keep it rather simple and use some accessories such as that gold lapel pin, gold tie clip with a red ruby, and some Aztec print socks to provide that extra pop of color to make this outfit come full circle.
04 5 / 2013
I found some great looks for this spring and upcoming summer season from one of my favorite tailors Patrick Johnson. As we all know brighter colors like pastels and lighter fabrics like linen and cotton are staples for this season. I also tend to go with a white shirt when wearing a bright colored blazer just to accentuate the color more.
02 5 / 2013
I found these images on Putthison.com. Since I am very found of this era I felt that it was only right to display them here. I love the fact that men in this era took so much interest in there appearance and carried themselves in such a regal manner. Notice how they carried canes as an accessory and not to aid them for any physical impairments.
26 4 / 2013
It is beginning to feel like springtime in Buffalo so I finally brought out my favorite denim jacket. I used it as layering piece with a plaid waist coast underneath. The night before I knew that I wanted to wear a green tie, but I had no idea how I wanted to pull it off. So I took a risk and used it as a statement piece. Fortunately, it all came together in the end. With that being said, never be afraid to use a random color to provide that extra pop to an outfit. The waistcoat, tie clip, brooch, and knit tie were all thrifted items. The double monks were purchased from Gilt.com and the slim cords were on clearance at Target for $5. I would not consider this to be one of my “Ballin on a Budget” outfits but in the grand scheme of things everything was relatively inexpensive.
25 4 / 2013
For this installment, I decided to represent for my Alma Mata, Buffalo State College. At Buffalo State our school color is orange so I sported an orange polka dot tie that I picked up from the local thrift store. As usual I experimented with some color blocking; therefore I paired it with a traditional blue dress shirt that I picked up from JCPenney’s revamped men’s department. I also wore the same pinstripe trousers that I recently tailored from the world renowned Chayban’s Custom Tailoring in Buffalo, NY. This also goes to show that it is acceptable to break up a suit and incorporate the separates into different ensembles. I felt that the pinstripes complemented the blue shirt nicely and provides a lot of versatility for future outfits. Furthermore, one interesting fact about this outfit is that with the exception of my shirt, socks, and underwear, everything featured here was purchased from a thrift store. All in all, it was a great day in Buffalo so I seized the day by taking some photos by the lake.
22 4 / 2013
I am sucker for plaid blazers and suede loafers. The suede loafer is the shoe of choice for the Spring and Summer seasons. This is not because some old fashion gurus sat down at the dinner table and decided the 2013 Spring and Summer trends. This is because suede loafers are constructed from a lighter fabric that allows your feet to breath during the warmer seasons. This also why so many fashion forward men tend to go sockless when wearing suede loafers so that they can get the full experience and feel the breeze between their toes. So during the upcoming weeks when you see me going sockless in my brand new chocolate brown suede tassel loafers, “don’t kill my vibe”…
22 4 / 2013
Accessories
I am sure that you all have realized by now that I am a fan of tie clips, brooches/lapel pins, and pocket squares. Collecting these accessories have become one of my favorite past times. Over the past few months I have been collecting tie clips, especially Swank Tie Clips. However that discussion is for a later post. Today I want to discuss the use of incorporating accessories into your outfit. As men, I believe that there is a limit to the amount of accessories that we can use. Those accessories include tie clips, brooches/lapel pins, pocket squares, cuff links, bracelets, and a watch. Some might even consider briefcases, hats, and glasses as an accessory as well. With all of these options, I feel that there some rules that us men should obey.
Firstly, make sure that all the metals match. In other words If your tie clip is silver please do not wear a predominantly gold brooch/lapel pin. This also applies to your cuff links, bracelets, belt, and watch. Therefore when I get dressed in the morning I make sure that if my tie clip is gold all my accessories somehow complement each other. Secondly, no matter what the scenario or occasion always wear a watch. Who cares if you have the time on your phone, a good watch always completes an outfit. Therefore I believe a watch is the most important accessory a man can own. Lastly, the most important rule is to limit the amount of accessories you wear. I feel that the more complex and exciting your outfit is the less accessories should be worn, and vice versa. Not all ensembles need a lapel pin, pocket square, and tie clip combination. Sometimes just one or two out of the three is all you need to really look great and stand out subtly. However, when in doubt just remember that “less is always more.”
22 4 / 2013
Vintage Swank tie clip and vintage label pin. The little things truly make me happy and help make an ordinary ensemble an extraordinary one.
